OBSERVATIONS OF NAPLES, ITALY

For many years I worked in Italy as a director for intensive summer English camps. It allowed me to extensively travel throughout Italy. Most of the sites I worked at were predominately in the North of the country. Now that I’m with someone from the bottom half of the country, Naples, I’ve had the opportunity to explore more of the South and observe the culture in a way I never could before. I’ve noticed a few things about Southern Italy...

I don’t consider myself the “average” American in the sense that I’ve lived in numerous countries, speak multiple languages and the majority of my friends are non-Americans. I am up-to-date on most international socio-political issues. One example would be why Spain is called the Balkans of Western Europe, or having the ability to explain the difference between Kurdish and Turkish cultures to confused Germans. So, imagine my surprise when I was instantly corrected when I called someone from Naples, Italian. “I’m not Italian, I’m Neapolitan.” And they said it with attitude! Like, “Get it right negro!” Well excuuuuuse me for not being informed about the underground resistance movement in the region fighting for more autonomy from Rome! In case you missed it people I’m being sarcastic. No such movement exists.  People from Naples first and foremost associate with their region. End of story. And you better not get it confused either! To do so might get you cut!

I’ve actually lived a few places where this is the case. Go to the Basque or Catalonian regions of Spain and you get the same thing. The difference in Spain is that the rest of the country vehemently fights to keep these regions connected politically, culturally and economically.  In Italy, it feels like the rest of the country could give a rat’s ass about Naples, seriously. I would even go so far as to say that if Naples decided to leave Italy and formally declare itself an independent country that there would be quite a few cheers and parties of celebration in the North. I’m almost positive Italian politicians would seriously debate if it were worth it to bring them back into the fold. No way would this happen in the states. If a city or state even JOKED about leaving the union the rest of the US would seriously get an attitude, hence why most of America distrusts Texas. 

My thing is, I think the rest of Italy underestimates the importance of Naples and all it brings to Italian culture. I also get why Neapolitans are so proud of where they come from. In a sense, their story is comparable to Black Americans. Hear me out now and let me break it down for you. I always thought I spoke Italian until I started going to Naples to visit my girlfriend’s family. I then learned I spoke Veneto which is a dialect from the North. As I worked there the most it made sense.  People in Naples have their own language. Trust me; it is its own language. When people speak it they might as well be speaking ancient Greek cause I get NOTHING of the conversation. Very similar to Ebonics in my opinion when white Americans with no contact to black American culture hear it. Many consider Ebonics to be a low-class, uneducated, bastardization of “proper” English. Same as how many Northern Italians consider Neapolitan. However, when linguists began studying Ebonics they found a complex grammatical structure with syntax rules that bridged certain deficiencies in modern English. I’m thinking Neapolitan has the same complexity if people took the time to study it. Ebonics was the natural evolution of a spoken language that African slaves were forced to learn and modified it to fit their personal needs. Look at the history of Naples and you’ll find a rich history of diversity from the people who lived and ruled there.

Another parallel I found on the cultural level. Much of the culture we assume is Italian is actually Neapolitan. Much of what we consider to be American culture began as black culture before it was co-opted into mainstream U.S. culture. Gospel, Jazz, Blues, R&B, Rock&Roll, Hip-Hop and even Techno are all innovations of Black Americans. We hear pizza we immediately say Italian. No. The first pizza was made in Naples and it wasn’t until years later that it made its way to the rest of Italy. And lord do Neapolitans take their pizza serious! If it’s not made a specific way that meets standards set in like the 1700’s they don’t call it pizza. Really. Call it whatever you like but you bet not call it pizza! The number of arguments I’ve had over what constitutes pizza in Naples is mind-boggling. Most of the songs non-Italians associate with Italy are actually Neapolitan songs. Many of the country’s most famous actors come from the Naples region. The area is a powerhouse when it comes to anything connected to film and music. Who knew??

Another way that Neapolitans are like black people? They are ghetto. Oh my goodness are they ghetto! I say that with affection! Ghetto has become a code word for a host of negative assumptions, but in reality many of the most beautiful and fascinating things came from the ghetto; the Jewish culture often times flourished in European ghettos, the Civil Rights movement in the states started in the ghetto, music, food, art forms, all started in the ghetto. Neapolitans are ghetto in the ghetto sense of the word too, just like black people can be. They are loud! House full of people and everybody speaking like no one can hear properly.  And to prove your point one has to talk louder than the other person. Whoever talks the loudest wins the argument. Through all of this the TV is on full blast for “background” noise. Sound familiar black people?? Then they will talk mess about all their family, but if you say one bad thing about one of their crazy cousins that they spent an hour bad-mouthing you might get shot.  Just because they talk bad about their family, culture or region does not mean YOU are allowed to do it. Period. In this life or the next. Or you’ll die. Horribly. Twice. I get it though! It’s like how black people are with the N-word. There is a huge debate going on in the black community right now over its use. Everyone has their opinion on if it causes damage to us as a race and sets us back as a people. In saying that, if a white person EVER ever, evereverever used the N-word around a group of black people they would literally be taking their life out of their own hands and placing it in that of those black people. It would be up to those black people if that white person lived or died. I’m not joking. THAT’S how Neapolitans are and why I feel so damn comfortable there.

These observations are getting long! Gotta break them up into two parts, stay tuned for part two! 

Costa Rica Observations II

COSTA RICA OBSERVATIONS II

This is the second part of my observations about Costa Rica. Thrown in are some random observations about Central America in general. Remember that these observations are from 2000-2001, my first time out of the United States.

1.) Ok. I lived with two host families during my time in Costa Rica. The first family had a son around my age, 23. We became friends and I spent much of my time with James and his friends. Well, James and his friends would go to strip clubs from time to time. People who know me know that I get too shy with all those naked women around. Anyway, what I’m trying to say is I was forced, yes FORCED to visit these vile locals that exploit women! Buuut, while I was there, I noticed this...In Costa Rica you never pay to get into strip clubs No matter how nice or dumpy it is, you don’t pay. Maybe this is the American in me coming out, but they are losing out on money. Men will pay to see naked women. It’s a simple fact of life. When naked women are involved, men will pay. Look at 900 numbers! Men can’t even see the person on the other side of the phone...could be Jabba the Hut, but those companies earn millions a year. Oh and strippers dance with clothes on longer than off. Maybe they did that back in the 50's, but in the 21st century?? I can see women in bikinis and lingerie on Bay Watch. Another strange thing...there is ONE dancer up on stage and that is IT. No other dancers walking through the crowd or other dancers getting ready to go up on stage..Just ONE dancer up on stage, when she finishes and goes back stage you have a room full of horny men sitting around in a room listening to bad music. Talk about awkward? The whole atmosphere in strip clubs is odd. Men just watch the strippers, only watch. No talking amongst friends, no whistling, no laughing with their friends, no blinking! Just staring like they are in some hypnotic trance. Felt like I was in a movie theater full of white people and if I said something they would shush me. Oooh the music they play in the strip clubs.. I am shaking my head in amazement. First of all there is no DJ, just piped in music from what source I don’t know. It was like someone’s 7th grade mix cd. Who plays Hotel California by the Eagles in a strip club? Or Boys II Men End of the Road?? I’m in the club about to cry listening to Phil Collins Another Day in Paradise. Where is the booty shaken’ music?! The 95 South, 69 Boyz, 2 Live Crew the music where the strippers make their asses clap like they at a gospel concert!!?? Salsa is a sexy dance, but it ain’t sexy when you are trying to strip! No. No to the salsa when you are a stripper. No, no, no. Strippers earn a wage in Costa Rica, there is no tipping. I saw strippers come in and punch a time clock. My question is, if you ain’t making hella tips stripping, WHY would you want to be in a room of horny men leering at you all night making minimum wage?? And you can’t really justify stripping without the money. I mean, I’m sure there are women who are exhibitionists, but in Costa Rica, they make the same as cashier clerk at the market. So why do it?? Go to the beach wear a thong, you’ll get hella attention and be able to tell your mother what you do for a living. Last thing...the customers can sleep with the strippers!! They see it as, why go to a strip club, see something you want, and not be able to have it. Of course payment is involved. Maybe that’s why the women don’t sweat the wage and no tips thing. Hhhmm..... Things are seriously different here.

2.) Daaaamn that was a long observations of strip clubs! Sounds like I had my ass in strip clubs every day making “observations”. Well I wasn’t!

3.) They love black people in Costa Rica! I swear. They really love black people in Costa Rica. A little history on the country. Costa Rica doesn’t have that fertile land to support all those crops that needed huge slave populations. Throw in the area didn’t have a large indigenous population to begin with, and a lot of Costa Ricans look European. In the 1950's they had a large Jamaican population move in to help build their national railroad. In these days, who is going to make the most money? The person who only speaks Spanish? Or the person who is fluent in Spanish and English? Well they speak English in Jamaica. Ok, some people might argue against that, but still. So the black people in Costa Rica usually have higher paying jobs. I would be walking along the street and it would be like a demolition derby for taxis trying to stop and pick me up. They know a black person isn’t going to stiff them on the fair. With the more European looking Costa Ricans there is no guarantee. Talk about the twilight zone! White teachers have me get the taxi cause as soon as I put out my hand, about 3 come out of no where and stop. It’s like they are stalking me or something! I heard once walking down the street, a grandmother telling her young grandchild, “See that man right there honey? That is the kind of man you need to marry when you grow up, a beautiful black man.” The little girl had blonde hair and blue eyes! I learned how lucky I am to be black living OUTSIDE of my own country...Now ain’t THAT a bitch?!

RANDOM CENTRAL AMERICAN OBSERVATIONS

While living in Central America, I had a chance to also travel through Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador and Guatemala. These are some of the things I saw in every country. Each country had specific things, but these are things I saw that seemed to fit for each country.

1.) We don’t know what poverty is in the United States. Yes, we have poor people, but someone considered poor in the U.S. is NOT the same as someone considered poor in Central America. When someone in the states is homeless, very rarely does it mean they are sleeping on the streets. There are shelters, or they have a car, etc, etc. If you see people living on the streets usually it’s a man, every once in a blue moon you see a couple. In Central America, entire families are living IN the streets. Not just mom and dad, but children, cousins, grandparents EVERYONE in the family sleeping on flattened cardboard boxes out in the streets. I lived in the Bay Area, California. Most people in the states will say that the homeless problem is at its worse in San Francisco. People in San Francisco who panhandle, beg for money, have shoes, clothes, all their body parts. In Guatemala, Nicaragua or Honduras, the people who were begging had no arms, holding the cup with their teeth, had no eyes and you could see the hollow sockets, people with real afflictions who you know if you gave them money they weren’t going out to by cheap whiskey or get a hit of the pipe. Then again, if they did, I wouldn’t have minded. If you have nothing below the waist...I mean you are just torso...And there are no government programs in place to help you out and you are living on the streets?? I can see why you might want to escape through a drug induced haze every once in awhile. Go ahead, I won’t be upset I see you with a needle in your arm. I’ll shed a few tears cause only a person with no heart can not be affected by seeing that shyte. Because of the poverty in Central America they take begging to a completely different level. In the states, they ask, you say no, they might push a bit, laugh and joke with you, but if you say no and keep walking...they go on to the next person. In let’s say...Guatemala. Most people from Guatemala are like 5ft tall. Here comes a big black dude towering over everyone else...I stood out a bit. Oh my lord I was attacked! Kids from all corners of the city were running out and begging from me. But they don’t stop! EVER! They just keep on constantly until you dip into a place that keeps them out. But they wait for you at the door! They are like midget Paparazzi without the cameras. And you can’t give to one, it makes the others more aggressive.

2.) Yeah, they take Easter just a bit more serious than we do in the United States. You don’t see any Rabbits, no painted Easter eggs, no baskets full of candy. They have Jesus up on the cross, bibles and mass. That week before Easter week? You better drink all you can cause the week leading up to Easter? Dry! No alcohol is sold. NONE! Not in the stores, not in bars, no where! They take that shyte seriously! You see groups of kids walking down the street dressed up as angels, Roman soldiers, the Apostles, Mary and Jesus. Not because their parents tell them to, just..because. They call Easter..Semana Santa which translates into Holy Week. Oooh do they take it seriously! They had me scared like Jesus had called them up and told them that he was thinking of stopping by for a visit. “Hello. Manuel? Yeah, this is J.C. What’s up man?! Don’t need to ask how you doing cause I know already! Ha ha ha. Sorry, I always crack myself up with that one. I was thinking of droppin’ by this Holy Week. Yeah, my dad wanted me to just drop in unannounced, but I figured the polite thing to do was to let you all know.” They put these amazing scenes from the bible in the middle of streets made from colored saw dust. COLORED SAW DUST. Do you know how long it takes to make those things and they just put them in the middle of random streets?! Want a religious Easter? Go to Central America.

3.) I could very well be wrong since this is my first time out of the states, but it seems like men who travel alone seem to be more attractive on average. I’m thinking, is it because for a man to just pack up and go to a country where he knows not a single soul and doesn’t speak the language, he has to have a strong sense of self. You know, a lot of positive re-enforcement in his life. Usually, it is the attractive men who get that. So it’s easier for them to just pick up and go somewhere new without as much worry. On the other hand, it seems the females who are out alone traveling on average would be considered less attractive on average. Not females out in groups, but SINGLE females traveling ALONE through foreign lands. Is that because the females considered attractive are most likely in relationships and more likely not to leave boyfriends or their comfort zone? Are the less attractive women used to being on the fringes anyway so it’s not a big deal to be different in a new country so don’t need the safety of a group? Just some thoughts....It could be only in Central America it’s like this, but in Europe most of the men traveling alone are ugly and the women beautiful.

4.) People in Central America don’t really like Americans. When you do some research you find out why. In Nicaragua the US helped overthrow the legitimately elected President that sparked a civil war. In Guatemala we supported a dictator that killed hundreds of thousands of indigenous citizens. And in El Salvador we had a serious hand in that civil war. We supplied arms AND troops. Oh yes, U.S. troops had a hand in KILLING innocent people in these countries. The white Americans traveling around would sow Canadian flags on their backpacks. Me being black, people would assume I was from Brazil, Dominican Republic or Jamaica. It was a PLUS being black! People would talk freely around me, granted they were speaking in Spanish and I’m not fluent by a damn site. But I can pick up on true dislike in more than language. U.S. needs to be aware of that for real. We are not as loved as we think in the world.